Utila or Roatan
When we were planning our trip to Honduras, there was endless chatter regarding which of the two most popular Bay Islands was best (poor Guanaja got the short end of the stick). Roatan lovers told us Utila was dirty and filled with rude backpackers and Utila fans told us Roatan was pricey and boring. So naturally, we decided to go to both of these well reviewed places.
Roatan took us by surprise. A stunningly beautiful island, it is caught between several worlds. Cruise ships come in on the south side and its passengers head out to enjoy the beach or zipline through the jungle. Backpackers head to West End where they can dive, sleep and eat from one unpaved road. European package travelers and those with a bit more cash head to the jaw dropping beach of West Bay. And tucked away in small settlements all across the island’s East side are families struggling to top the poverty line. The island seems to juggle its different facets and audiences with grace, so far. Utila is in fact filled with backpackers. It is dirt cheap, has a strong hippie dive culture, a pulsing nightlife, and is dotted by postcard worthy cays along the southwest side. There is one major settlement, Utila Town, and the rest of the island is covered in shrubby forest and dotted by more upscale dive resorts.
via sailingvalentina.com
So, as people ask endlessly on search engines, travel forums, and around the travel community, which island should you visit? Well, it depends what you are looking for.
If you’re going for beaches, head to Roatan. West Bay beach features amazing scenery, crystal blue water, top-notch snorkeling and surprisingly well handled development. It’s mostly lined by family resorts but features a few hostels and is an easy boat ride or walk from West End, the backpacker hub of the island. The island is long enough to feature many tucked away coves and beaches where you could be the only person around. Unfortunately for Utila, the easily accessible Chepes beach is unimpressive and the decent Bando beach charges an admission fee. And then there are the sand flies. There are insanely beautiful beaches in Utila- they simply lie on the cays. Which means paying for a two-way boat ride and in some cases (like Water Cay) a small admission fee. Totally worth the trouble, but still a hassle compared to the beaches of Roatan. 
If you’re going to party, get thyself to Utila. Roatan certainly does have a party scene, centered mostly in West Bay. There are bars and clubs littered around the road and prices are very cheap compared to what you would pay in the states or the UK. An added bonus for divers is that the start times for dive trips are actually later in Roatan than in Utila! However, Roatan just can’t beat the nightlife in Utila. There are dirt cheap bars hanging over the water, crazy mosaic treehouses, a bar in the middle of the bush (named, aptly, Bar in the Bush), and an infamous annual 24 hour rave. Due to the concentration of people in one small area, every night of the week you will find a lively crowd out and about. 
If you’re going for diving, go to both. Granted, we only did two dives in Roatan and three dives in Utila, but I would say that’s enough to get a taster of what each island has to offer. If I were the type to generalize (and I totally am) I would say Roatan has better coral and visibility, and I appreciate their 9am start times (compared to Utila’s 8am-hello, I was at Treetanic bar all night!). However, Utila has the big draw, and that’s whale sharks. Underwater enthusiasts flock to this little island from far and wide for the chance of a glimpse at one of these giant creatures. Unfortunately we didn’t see any this time around, but based on word of mouth advice if we were going back I’d try to make it around the full moon (seriously) and stick to sites on the north side. 
If you’re a non diver and looking for plenty of activities, head to Roatan. Probably thanks in part to the burgeoning cruise ship industry, Roatan has no lack of activities and attractions that charge admission fees. From the Botanical Gardens to the Roatan Museum to submarine rides to ziplining through the canopy, Roatan has it all. For animal lovers there is a butterfly garden, an iguana farm, horseback riding on the beach, and the biggest draw of them all: dolphin encounters. In Utila, if you aren’t diving, you can do one of the following: listen to people talk about diving, sleep off your hangover, go snorkeling and watch people go diving, go to the cays to get away from people talking about diving, or go to the Iguana Breeding Station. So, if you are into real “attractions,” things are a bit limited. Even renting a bike and exploring, we found little of note, other than a far away mini golf course, a horseback riding sign, and Pumpkin Hill.
If you’re on an ultra tight budget, go to Utila. Lodging, food, and alcohol are noticeably cheaper on Utila. Even activities, like renting a motorcycle, was less costly on the small island. Diving prices remain quite similar between the islands, unless of course you go with the most low quality dive shop that ever existed on Earth.
Ideally, I strongly recommend you do as we did and visit both islands. Not only will you get to decide for yourself which is best, you won’t get bored as the islands complement each other well and have a distinctly different feel and energy. It won’t be cheap, as it will take over $100 in transportation costs to start and end in La Ceiba and stop at both islands, but your trip will be richer for it. Heck, If you’ve got the money and the time, do what we couldn’t and stop in Guanaja, the forgotten Bay Island, accessible only by plane.
Have you been to the Bay Islands? If so, which was your favorite? If not, which one would you pick?
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I'm a New York native who left my home to explore the world slowly and thoroughly. I love photography, scuba diving, and reading guidebooks to countries I have no immediate plans to visit. Read more on my 
Honduras is one of the last countries I need to visit in Latin America. I’m dying to visit both islands. What an awesome writeup!
One last question, which island has more luxury accommodation?
I would think that Roatan does as it is much more upmarket. However Utila had some really nice isolated dive resorts that might be pretty lovely. As I said, I recommend both!
I stopped in Roatan last fall on a cruise. Our excursion with a local company, however, brought us to the sad-looking East side. Since most of my day was spent watching people living in poverty, seeing dead and abused dogs, and swatting sand flies while avoiding raw sewage, I wasn’t such a fan. However, West Bay did look gorgeous (we stopped at an overlook on our way East to see it), and Mahogany Bay (where the cruise ship docked), while touristy, was nice and had plenty of things to do.
I think if I ever return, I’ll either head straight to West Bay beach or stay in Mahogany Bay.
Utila sounds nice, but I don’t dive, so it may not be worth the trip…
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It’s true, the east side was a bit shocking. West Bay beach seems like the perfect place to head with only a day. Or if you are a confident driver, rent a car or bike!
I’ve heard great things about Roatan, I’d love to check it out!
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It really is an amazing island. Caribbean beauty at much better prices.
Both islands (Roatan and Utila) are really beautiful, however you can find more things to do in Roatan, which is the largest of the Bay Islands.
Getting to Roatan is very easy, you can get there by air directly from Houston, Atlanta or Honduras mainland, there is an international airport in Roatan. You can also get to Roatan in a Cruise Ship or ferry boat.
However, if you want to get to Utila you need to plan very carefully, either you take a ferry boat from La Ceiba or Roatan, or you can take a local flight that gets to Utila only on Saturdays, interesting, isn´t it?
I guess if you are looking to forget about modern life and enjoy a paradisiac beach destination, you better go to Utila and relax. But if you want to enjoy a beautiful island in the Caribbean with all modern facilities, you can go to Roatan.
Hi CJ, thanks for the comment and the info! I knew there were infrequent flights to Utila, but I didn’t know it was only Saturdays! I absolutely loved both islands, what a special place.
Hello:
I’m from Utila, but reside in New York, so I may be a little prejudice with my views.
With that said, having been to both islands and many tourist destinations worldwide, it is in my humble opinion that Utila is for adventurous spirited, kind, sincere people with a personality that just want to be free to express themselves as a person, weather it is just for that little brief time they are on vacation, or they choose permanently relocate there.
Utila is about people and nature, not things, if you like listening and talking or doing neither, then Utila is for you. If you are looking for material comforts beyond the basics, then you will not like Utila much.
If you are looking to refresh your body and mind, then Utila is for you. You must like the salt water for what it is and what it offers. You must like yourself and feel good about being you so you can share and allow people to share a moment in time with you. There are no set agendas, you have to make your own.
The diving industry serves people looking to get cheap certification to experience the more upscale dive sites around the world. Most of the people that go to Utila for certification rarely returns. The people that go there on a vacation to explore and bring a curiosity of life and people with them, rarely leaves, or returns very frequently.
This can be seen by the real estate listing on the Island. These houses are not for locals nor can the locals afford them, they are people who found a way to recharge their batteries or escape all together.
The key to enjoying Utila is to start a conversation with your local bartender or store clerk or waiter, about what you want, and take it from there. They have a wealth of information, but they will not impose on you, you have to reach out a little, but once word gets around, and it does fairly quickly, you will have more friends helping you than you care for, and your adventure begins.
Utila is like anywhere else on the planet, use discretion and common sense to ensure your safety and your belongings. There are a lot of people passing through the place and not permanently located there. Try to associate with people that are stable and established there for a more accurate perspective of what life has to offer there.
Enjoy your visit, hope you like it.
Hi Richard… thanks for your insightful comment. I loved Utila but I agree with you, it’s not for everyone. It is a special place and I’m happy to have visited… and likely will go back again!
Hey Alex! Thanks for the blog post. My coworker and I are heading to Honduras and your post was very useful. Where did you stay? We’re looking for cheap hostels where we can get the ultimate backpacker experience.
Hi Hannah! I actually can’t even remember the name of the place we stayed in Utila, but it was a guesthouse and not a hostel. Sorry I can’t be more help, but I don’t think you’ll have any problem meeting people in Honduras!
We stayed at Anthony’s Key Resort
http://www.anthonyskey.com/about/about-us.htm and it was amazing! on Roatan
I went there to see the dolphin show… looked like a beautiful resort!
I am a solo female traveler heading to honduras to finish my open water dives. So this was a very useful post! Will definitely go to Utila now to meet other likeminded travelers! I also loved the budget posts, very helpful! Thanks!
I only have 10 days (spring break)…wanted to dive in Utila and maybe go somewhere else, should I go to Belize(Ambergris Cayes?) or stay the whole time in the islands in Honduras??? thoughts anyone??
Belize is great but, I would suggest Utila for now. Get comfortable with diving while there. There are lots of great sites around the island & good shops to dive with. I was there approx 15 years ago and stayed at Utila Lodge (first rate but $$$) I went back solo 2 years ago and stayed at Rubi’s and used Parrots (also offers lodging) for my diving. Utila has remained a charming place with interesting people. Savor it.