San Juan del Sur, it turns out, is one of those love it or hate it kind of places. And before I arrived, I heard a lot of the hate it side of things. The main complaints lodged against this Pacific Coast beach town were that it was too party oriented, it didn’t feel safe, and…

I loved spending a lazy week in Granada. But I recognize that for many travelers, those who don’t work online or have a new-found Zumba addiction to feed, for example, seven days might be a bit much. In fact, when it comes down to straight up tourist activities, pretty much everything I accomplished could probably be…

I arrived in Nicaragua knowing not more much more itinerary-wise than the city I planned to sleep in that night. I was returning to Central America for the fifth time, and I was more unprepared than ever. I didn’t have a single hostel booked, a single tour planned, or a single bus schedule notated. But yet…

Yesterday I said goodbye to Nicaragua. I wasn’t expecting to be so attached to this country in under a month, and I felt quite sad to leave! If it weren’t for some of my favorite humans in the world waiting just over the border in El Salvador, I don’t think I would have. I have a…

Tomorrow I’m wheels up out of San Juan del Sur and onward to Leon, exactly two weeks after arriving in this teeny surf town. I have bittersweet feelings about going. On one hand, I’ve really fallen in love with it here and can see how easy it would be to just never leave. On the other…

“Oy mami!” I was fiddling with my camera on the streets of Granada when a man walked by moaning this at me. I was so shocked when I looked up that I snapped my head around and followed him with an icy stare until he left my field of vision. He almost had the humility to…