Happy Thanksgiving to my US-based readers! I’m incredibly depressed to be spending the holidays away from my family, so if you need me I’ll be spending the day eating a turkey sandwich, making pathetic attempts at streaming the Macy’s Day Parade, and sobbing into Skype.
Something I’m thankful for this year? The fact that my job occasionally involves visits to thoughtfully designed, beautifully executed boutique hotels around the world (and yes, I do in fact realize the incredible irony in bookending a tirade about competitive cheapness between two posts about luxury properties).
My original plan for Lake Titicaca was to stay at a marginally-reviewed hostel in infamously dumpy Puno and spend as much time as possible on the lake’s famous islands. However, a few days before arrival Zoe and I were invited to the remote Titilaka, one of the lake’s most unique lodging choices. This small luxury property is an hour via unpaved dirt roads from downtown Puno in sense of time, but worlds away in terms of atmosphere.
Here, in the seclusion of a tucked away bank of South America’s largest lake and the world’s highest navigable one, we found more peace and relaxation than we’d had anywhere in Peru.
The property is simply exquisite. I loved the fresh and bold color choices like black walls and bright pink pillows, the strikingly modern furniture choices and the funky special touches like Barbie dolls dressed in locally-inspired outfits and encased under glass. Local handicrafts, like the weaving the area is renown for, were incorporated in a way that was anything but stale. And of course, there was the lake — it was impossible to ever forget the fantastic setting we were in thanks to wrap-around windows in every single room on the property.
I couldn’t have dreamed up a more stylish interpretation of a Barbie-laced lakeside cabin had I tried.
Because of the remote location of the hotel, all room rates include all meals, as well as a daily cocktail hour and two glasses of fine South American wine with dinner. Menus featured local delicacies — Zoe tried an alpaca carpaccio — and we didn’t grow tired of dining from the same kitchen even after three nights.
If there is one area of improvement for the Titilaka, it is that presentation of food was inconsistent — some dishes were artfully and colorfully arranged while others were simply white pasta plopped in a white bowl.
When we weren’t out on one of the hotel’s many daily excursions — which you’ll hear more about tomorrow — we were lounging around Titilaka, soaking in the beautiful views, and reaching nirvana-like levels of relaxation. We joked that there were too many inviting places in the hotel to sit — we’d never in three days manage to fully appreciate resting our bums in each of them!
While the property was relatively small, so were the number of guest rooms, and so the hotel never felt crowded. Often I felt that we were all guests at the private home of an incredibly stylish friend rather than hotel customers.
Out of all the many spots to enjoy, my favorite was our room, one of only eighteen on the property. The layout meant that whether I was working on my laptop from the daybed, drifting off to an afternoon nap under the duvet or taking luxuriously long shower, I was always looking out at the beautiful expanses of Lake Titicaca.
Simple yet seemingly indulgent special touches included fresh flowers, hot water bottles at turndown, and an all-inclusive mini-bar shelf (though a mini fridge would be a nice addition for all the bottled drinks).
The final area of this virtual tour of the hotel is the excursion center, where guests plan their activities exploring the waters and shores of Lake Titicaca. In just a few days, Zoe and I managed to squeeze in quite a few, including a biking adventure and a trip to the famous Isla Taquille — stay tuned for more!
During our visit, one of the tour guides told me the average length of a visit to Lake Titicaca for international tourists is only one night. I was shocked to hear it — surely this special place is worthy of a few more than that? Luckily guests to Titilaka stay for an average of two to three times that long. I can see why. I can’t imagine a visit to Peru without stopping at this beautiful lake, and I can’t imagine a more unique base to experience it from.
Many thanks to Titilaka for their generous hospitality. I was a guest of the hotels in order to promote them on this site and through my freelancing outlets. As always, you receive my thorough and honest opinions regardless of who is footing the bill.
That mirror under the table trips me out man….
I’m impressed these accommodations are available though I’m interested in what the prices are. I really like the framed maps too but I’m a sucker for a sharp looking map.
I’m a map person too! These were great too, zooming in from country to region to immediate area. Room rates for a random night in December were $530 per night for two people in a full board package which includes all meals and local activities and excursions (like walks, short bike rides, kayaking, etc.) The rate jumps to $930 a night for a comprehensive package which also includes hotel transfers and more involved excursions like trips to various islands around the lake, etc.
Wow, that really looks lovely. I wish we’d know about somewhere this nice on the Peruvian side of the lake when we visited earlier this year. Puno is indeed a dump, and I’m glad the lake was as beautiful as it was to distract from the ugly town.
I was dying to pop over to the Bolivian side, but couldn’t stomach paying so much for a visa ($150 for Americans, I believe) for just a short visit. Had I had time to really do Bolivia justice I’d be happy to pay it, but not for a few days :/
This has got to be my favourite of all the incredible places you’ve stayed and written about here! It’s so quirky and looks unbelievably comfortable, the fact it is on Lake Titicaca just blows my mind… I want to go there!
You need to come! 🙂 Quirky really is the word. I love it!
Looks amazing! My bed in India is crap so seeing that fluffy duvet almost kills me. Glad you got to relax and work in luxury!
Aren’t duvets just the ultimate luxury? I feel so indulged whenever I return to one after nights with a stupid sheet or something. Hope you find a better bed soon 🙂
Alex, we missed you too on Thanksgiving Day. At least you can be thankful for finding places like this on your tour. The phrase ‘working on my laptop from the daybed, drifting off to an afternoon nap under the duvet or taking luxuriously long shower, I was always looking out at the beautiful expanses of Lake Titicaca’…..makes the rest of us working stiffs green with envy. I would like to hear about how and who built this. I would like to have heard the pitch to the bank for the mortgage to finance this place….and only 18 rooms.
Actually, Zoe and I discussed that while we were there! Considering the remote location, I’d have to assume land was VERY cheap, despite being lake front. And really there is limited competition — this is one of two hotels of this caliber on the Peru side of Titicaca.
ohhh that place looks amazing im in love with the quirky cow statues and all the pastel pink and greens. Very inspirational.
You would have loved it, Zoe! Incredibly funky design. I especially loved the color of the bedroom door.
I never realized I needed a bar/ kitchen area with padded pink walls just now. That hotel is amazing.
When you renovate, send me a photo 🙂
Wow that place is beautiful!Not that I don’t love a good cheap hostel but staying somewhere reealllyy nice is always soo awesome, and so much fun! Glad you enjoyed your stay! 🙂
It is definitely a nice breath of fresh air between budget finds, for sure!
A pity we didnt read your blog earlier ! We have booked 3 nights on Isla Suasi,with a stop on route at Isla Taquille. The island is private,and the hotel supplies kayaks. I hope it will be as good as your choice !!!
I’m sure it will be Shaun, I’ve heard great things! If not, a return trip can always be in order 🙂