Diving on the Big Island

Heather and I went to The Big Island for one reason.

Sure, the chance to see lava erupting from an active volcano was pretty nice. And the fact that we had a free place to stay, courtesy of a long time family friend didn’t hurt either. Black sand beaches, laid back towns and 11 of the world’s 13 climate zones were all bonuses. But really, we came to the Big Island for one reason: To dive with manta rays.

As we pulled up to Kona Diving Company, I was buzzing with nerves and anticipates. Would the manta rays show up at their world-famous nightly feeding spot? Would I panic, as is my tendency when night diving? Would I weep when I read my credit card statement and realized this was the most I had ever in my life paid to scuba dive?

Photos by Heather Holt

It’s true — this is no bargain expedition. At $166 per person (including all gear rental, taxes, and fees), we had made quite the investment in this evening. And not just monetarily, either — we were staying clear on the other side of the island, so we spent the entire day driving from Hilo to Kona. We’d spend even more quality time with our rental jeep that night when we slept in it — why yes, we were in fact too broke to pay for a hostel after dropping such big bucks on diving.

Little did we know that this was a two-for-the-price-of-one situation. We signed up to see Pacific manta rays, but en route to the dive site we were treated to the most unbelievable dolphin show I’ve ever seen. It started with a tiny baby, about the size of a football, jumping and playing in the distance.

As the entire boat of fifteen divers and snorkelers rushed to the sides to try to catch a glimpse, an entire pod appeared around us in every direction. Cameras clicked furiously as we all assumed they would pass us by as quickly as they appeared. But they stayed with us for almost fifteen minutes — flinging themselves into the air, playing in the wake, speaking to each other in their melodic clicking language. It was one of the most amazing displays of wildlife I’ve ever seen — better than anything Sea World has ever put on, I’m sure of it.

While I shot video clips, Heather took photos that I love so much they kind of make me want to cry. Don’t you wish you could always travel with a professional photographer?

Photos above and below left by Heather Holt

Photo by Heather Holt

Photo by Heather Holt

Photos by Heather Holt

The dive instructors on the boat, Jordan and David, told us it was the best dolphin encounter they had ever had! Our luck was changing. We pulled up to the dive site in high spirits, with perma-smiles on our faces, and — apparently — dolphin hand-puppets on our arms.

As we geared up for dive one, a dusk dive at Keahole Point, my intense love for Kona Diving Company was cemented. First, they gave us goldfish and trail mix as well as access to a cooler full of Diet Coke. Then, in a  successful attempt to outdo any other dive outfit I’ve patronized over the years, they let Heather and me wear these completely amazing lobster and nudibranch dive hoods. Life = complete.

A dusk dive is a good way to ease into night diving — you actually enter the water before the sun goes down, so things get darker gradually throughout the dive. It’s much less traumatizing to jump into the water at sunset than it is in the pitch black of night.

Photo by Heather Holt

Photo by Heather Holt

In yet another touch I loved about Kona Diving Company, the captain offered to take each person’s photo once in the water. I thought that was especially nice for divers who didn’t have underwater cameras with them.

Of course, these two photo addicts did! As soon as we descended, my heart sank when I turned on my camera and got a half-battery warning. And then it sank right through to my gut when I realized I left my spare battery in my care like an idiot! Here I was on a once-in-a-lifetime dive trip, and I left my spare battery in the car. I tried not to cry through my mask, and in the meantime only took a few photos, preferring to preserve my remaining power for the second dive.

Photo by Heather Holt

We crossed the coral reef, slowly and gradually getting deeper until we reached the sand. There, we found a garden of sand eels. These alien-like creatures are incredibly shy and retreat into the sand if you so much look at them. Swimming through them is an otherworldly experience, like having a force field five feet around you in every direction.

Normally I try to shoot as much as possible with natural light. Obviously, that’s not going to fly on a night dive. I’m so grateful that Heather has encouraged me to start working with my on-camera flash. It’s hit or miss, but I got some shots that I love.

At one point in the dive, I heard a high pitch squeal being emitted through Heather’s regulator. I followed her gaze to what can only be described as the most adorable baby eel that ever existed on the planet.

Photo by Heather Holt

Just as we were about to reach the boat, our Divemaster banged his tank and pointed into the distance. Squinting, I caught a little preview of what was to come — the first manta ray I’d ever laid eyes on. It was the perfect way to end a bright and colorful dive.

Photo by Heather Holt

Back on the boat, Heather and I excitedly chatted as I looked through her photos. I love diving with another photographer — through their photos, I can see everything that I missed.

Photo by Heather Holt

Photos above and below by Heather Holt

Photos above and below by Heather Holt

Photo by Heather Holt

Photos above and below by Heather Holt

We waited patiently for the sky to grow darker and the nitrogen to safely leave our bodies so we could jump back into the water, and meet the mantas we’d traveled so far to see…

To be continued…

Note: Kona Diving Company in no way paid or perked me to write this review. In fact, they didn’t even know I was a blogger. If it feels like I’m gushing, that’s only because they were simply the best scuba operator I’ve ever had the pleasure of diving with!